1600-year-old Ram temple near Chennai

Yes, you read that right. When all attention is centered on the newly consecrated Ram Temple in Ayodhya, many do not know about this 1600-year-old Ram Temple near Chennai. Vishnu temples are aplenty in Tamil Nadu, but a temple where Vishnu is worshipped in his avatar as Ram and the presiding deity of a temple, is not common.

Many a time, I have travelled on the GST Road from Chennai bound for the southern districts of Tamil Nadu. On a few occasions, have traversed this route by train too. Be it by road or rail, a common sight around 85 kilometers from Chennai will be the gopuram of this famous temple and a little way off, one can see a large lake. The small town, from the midst of which the gopuram stands up majestically is called Madurantakam. The town is said to be named after Uttama Chozhan, popularly known as Madurantaka Cholan, who ruled the area between 971-985 CE. So, did he also build the Ram Temple here? No. Though the artificial lake was created by the Cholas, the Ram Temple is said to have built at least 500 years earlier, during the reign of the Pallavas.

This time as were returning from down south by road, we decided that we would take a detour and have darshan at this Ram Temple. So, we branched off from the superb expressway and onto an almost half-circle road that came down into Madurantakam. Surprised, that the gopuram was not visible yet, even as I was peering around, we had reached the temple gate. What? Then it dawned on me. A major renovation of the temple was underway and hence the gopuram (temple tower) was covered. Limited darshan and poojas were taking place, we were told, and we walked into the holy precincts of the temple.

Not much of a crowd and as we stood before the Lord, He presented an awe-inspiring sight. Unlike in Ayodhya, where Ram is worshipped as a child, Ramlalla, here in Madurantakam, Ram is worshipped as an adult, in a standing posture with Sita and Lakshmana by his side. Strangely enough, Hanuman is not seen here but worshipped in a separate temple, some distance away. Why? It is believed that Ram had sent Hanuman to inform Bharat about his whereabouts and hence Hanuman did not come here. Ram is seen holding the hands of Sita, again something not seen often. Karunakara Perumal, whose moorti Ram worshipped here is seen in front of the presiding deity Ram.

The priests explained to us that the ‘kumbabishekam’ after the temple renovation would take another six months, and also explained us the temple’s history. The presiding deity here was originally known as (and officially, still is) Kothanda Ramar. How He came to be popularly addressed as Eri Katha Ramar(Ram who saved the lake, in Tamil) in the last 250 years is simply incredible and gave us goosebumps. In the late 1790s, there was a British Collector of Chengalpattu district (of which Madurantakam is a part), by the name Colonel Lionel Blake. Blake was worried about the incessant rains and a possible breach of the massive lake’s bunds, that could be disastrous for thousands of people in many neighboring villages/towns. As he was taking stock of the situation, he visited the Ram temple and found a large number of stone blocks lying around. When asked, what they were for, the priests explained to the Collector that they planned to build a separate ‘sannadhi’ (temple block) inside the temple for Jankavalli, as Sita was known here, but owing to financial difficulties, work had stopped. Blake suggested using the stone blocks for fortifying the lake bund to prevent flooding, to which the priests protested vehemently. Blake sarcastically asked them – ‘ Will Lord Ram protect the lake?’. Yes, was the reply, if we prayed sincerely to Him. It was pouring heavily that night and Blake decided to go out with his team to the lake shore to have a first-hand account of what was going on, even as the local people started praying to Ram. There was a roll of thunder and a bright flash of lightning and then Blake had this vision ………. He saw two warriors armed with bows and arrows, walking slowly along the lake bund, protecting it. An excited Blake called out to his team members, but none of them could see the warriors. Blake prostrated himself and prayed to them to protect the lake, realizing they were Ram and Lakshman. By morning, the rains ceased, and the lake had not been breached. Colonel Blake took it upon himself to build the temple block for Jankavalli, as a thanksgiving. Kothanda Ramar became Eri Katha Ramar and the picture of Colonel Lionel Blake, having his vision can be seen painted on the wall. When the renovation would be completed, the original plate showing Blake as the contributor towards building the Jankavalli sannadhi would also be restored.

Many centuries before the British came to India and Lionel Blake had a vision of Lord Ram, the temple in Madurantakam had great historical significance as a major center for Vaishnavism or worshippers of Vishnu. The renowned, Vaishnavite saint, philosopher and social reformer, Ramanuja met Acharya Peria Nambi here at the instance of Lord Vishnu and he was initiated into the ‘Pancha Samaskaram’ below a Makila tree ( Magizha tree) that stands to this day. The ‘Dwayam Manthara’ was also told to Ramanuja and hence this place occupies an important place of worship for Vaishnavites, who refer to Madurantakam as ‘Dwayam Valaintha Tirupati’ also. The small pavilion (mandap) where Ramanuja sat, could also be seen.

Made an instant decision to visit this temple again after the renovation. An important place , close to Chennai, not to be missed.