Down… to the coastal plains

We had barely travelled fifteen minutes from our hotel in Nuwariya Eliya, when we had our first halt, right on the main road towards Ella — The Sita Amman Temple (Temple dedicated to Seetha matha). Little did we know then, that today would be the longest, most exciting and obviously the most tiring day of our tour.

Quaint, little temple built beside a fast-flowing stream with thick forests providing the backdrop.

Stepping inside, we find the idols of Rama, Sita, Lakshmana & Hanuman in the sanctum sanctorum. Hey, wait a minute, there seems to be another sanctum as well. The priest explains that the first one was ‘swayambhu’ or that the idols were found in the vicinity (self-created) while the second-one was by ‘Pratistha’ i.e. man-made. Even as we were offering prayers, there came in, a group of westerners, wearing sarees, bindis, bangles, etc. accompanied by a local guide. Recalled that this temple forms an integral part of the ‘Ramayana Tour’. The actions of these westerners inside the sacred precincts of the temple, left much to be desired. They were striking odd poses, giggling away and clicking photographs/selfies, all over the place. Puja too was performed on their behalf and prasad handed over to them. Wondered what they did with it! in the name of tourism, the faith of Hindus who throng this temple should not be hurt. The temple authorities/Sri Lankan Tourism authority would do well to address this issue.

Legend has it, that this was Ashoka Vatika and the place where Sita was held captive by Ravana. This is also said to be the place where Hanuman, as Rama’s messenger met Sita and reassured her that Rama would come to save her. Stepping out into the open, towards the rear of the temple, we see and hear the gurgling stream, where Sita is supposed to have had her bath. Also, we see large imprints on the ground, believed to be Hanuman’s footprints. A small lamp is lit therein and the footprint worshipped.

Over an hour spent at the temple and we were on our way to Ella to see the Nine Arch Bridge.

We had originally planned to travel from Nuwara Eliya to Ella by train, as it is stated to be one of the most picturesque train journeys in the world. However, as the train timing was not suitable and also the journey time of 4 hours would impact our trip, we continued by road, in our van. Greenery on both sides, as we passed numerous homestays, small hotels, picturesque villages and beyond the town of Bandarawela, we touched the town of Ella. Drove pat the busy town center on to the railway station, the point from where one can reach the Nine Arches or simply Nine Arch Bridge. There were autorickshaws, called ‘Tuk-Tuks’ locally and the drivers agreed to ferry us to the Nine Arch Bridge for LKR 1500, one way. The other option was to walk along the narrow dirt track beside the railway line. The third option was to trek through a forest path, not a very difficult trek but were told should take 30-45 minutes. Being in an adventurous mood, it was an unanimous decision to trek through the forest path. Oh boy! Was it enjoyable? It sure was, not a difficult trek and the greenery all round is so soothing and then ……………………. the first sight of the bridge is simply WOW.

There is small restaurant on the way, where the path takes a slight detour. We had been walking for close to 40 minutes, when through thick foliage, I caught the first sight of the bridge and shouted out ‘There it is’.

It is a lovely viaduct bridge with 9 arches, spanning across the valley at a bend. The location is in between Demodara and Ella railway stations. It was built in 1921 and surprisingly, no steel was used in its construction and it is wholly made of brick and cement. There is a single railway track and tourists throng this place to view trains passing over the bridge and then passing into the nearby tunnel. The trains too, have their share of tourists taking in the lovely sights. Surprisingly, very few Indian tourists. As we walked closer to the bridge, we saw a group of tourists sitting on the edge of a small ledge, where there was a makeshift bamboo frame. Even as I wanted to join them there over a rough, uneven path, we heard a sudden loud, thud. There were no screams or cries but we could see some activity among the people sitting there. Soon, there was a small cry of celebration, as a tourist who had slipped and fallen down the ledge (thankfully, not down into the valley, as he had hung on) climbed/was pulled up using a thick bamboo stick, part of the frame. He was badly bruised but did not appear to have suffered any serious internal injury, as he quietly walked away. Now we were on the track on the bridge and a little way down, could see the tunnel too. As we took in the beautiful sight, some of us walked into the tunnel and back.

Now, we could hear the horn of a train approaching. Immediately, the crowd moved closer to the track, looking for vantage positions, with their mobiles/cameras held high.

Truly an incredible sight! Now to get back to Ella town. Again, a unanimous decision — We are too tired to walk back. Stepped out from the viewing place and we had a number of tuk-tuks waiting. The fare demanded now LKR 3000. We hired two tuk-tuks and took the nicely tarred, hilly road and reached the restaurant in Ella, where we had agreed to meet Nuwan, in twenty minutes. Chatting nineteen to the dozen, we polished off the lunch and were ready for the next attraction.

Soon we were at a bend of the road and Nuwan parked the van. We could see some ‘tuk-tuks’ parked nearby, a small tarred road on a steep incline nearby with a signboard proclaiming ‘Ravana Cave -1.8 km’. Our van would not go up the narrow road and we had to take the tuk-tuks only. A bout of bargaining followed, we threatened half-heartedly that we would walk up the 1.8 kilometers and back, but the tuk-tuk drivers called our bluff. Finally, a deal was stuck at LKR 3000 per tuk-tuk for a to-and-fro trip. We were off and the Bajaj tuk-tuks manfully took us up the steep hill road. Green and brown was the color on both sides, not the thick vegetation we had seen earlier. We had reached a small clearing where there was a tiny eatery, ticketing booth and not-so-clean toilets. No tourists around. We bought the tickets and were about to move when the person manning both the ticket counter and eatery ran behind us with some sticks in his hand. He said we would need them for support as we walked around 1000 rough, steep steps apart from a narrow, and at times slippery path over the rocks. a bit off concern spread over our faces , but we marched towards the small gate, that was opened by the ticket counter guy, allowing us to start the upward climb.

Arduous climb. Many among us, decided to stop midway and then go down for some relaxation. The sun was high in the sky and we were sweaty and thirsty. Three of us made steady but slow progress. Should have carried a water bottle, we thought, as our throats got parched. No stalls on the path, except for an old lady selling buttermilk. Looked around, some good views and we were now at the mouth of the cave. Over some slippery rocks and a rusted iron ladder, we reached inside. We could see a small tunnel a little higher, to which one has to literally crawl or be pulled up by someone. This tunnel, as many others led to the Ashok Vatika , we had seen in the morning, but apparently now the tunnels are sealed. We saw a Russian couple coming down and we asked them how the inside of the tunnel was. Musty, they said. We could only a few feet and it is full of … bats. Eeeks! Immediately took the decision to return down. Came down and joined the rest of the family for a cool drink. Ravana Cave– Was it worth? Will say No. If you skip it, you do not miss much. This is, again a part of the Ramayana Tour. Senior citizens walking up — Unlikely and not advisable. Back on the tuk-tuks to our van on the road.

A brief halt a short while later at the Ravana Falls. Ravan Cave, on another side of the mountain is said to be behind the falls. No clear evidence of that. A small crowd had gathered to click pictures of the fall from the roadside.

We wanted to visit Katargama Murugan Temple, but Nuwan said it was too late, without assigning any reasons. We insisted we go there, even if it meant a slight detour from our route and a late arrival at Yala. Reluctantly, Nuwan agreed and we were on our away on a desolate road leading towards Katargama. There was a forest check-post and the officials warned us that a couple of elephants had been sighted in the afternoon on our route and warned us to be careful, as they were not in groups and hence could be dangerous. We were munching on snacks and chatting away, when we saw him — a lone elephant, standing quietly by the side of the road, to our left. We just slowed down a wee bit and then sped away.

Even as we were excitedly talking about the sighting, we could see peacocks and then a monitor lizard on the other side of the road. A few kilometers further and I pointed half in fear and half in excitement at a lone tusker moving purposefully towards our vehicle. As he drew closer, Nuwan swerved the vehicle to the right and stepped on the gas. A close shave but a wonderful experience…….on hindsight.

4.30 PM — We were in Katargama. Neat little town, with a temple complex comprising a Muruga Temple for Hindus as well as a place of worship for Buddhists called Kiri Vehera Dagoba. One has to cross a bridge spanning the River Manik Ganga, a river whose water, it is said absolves you of sins if you take a dip there. Forget taking a dip, we were disappointed that the sanctum sanctorum of the Murugan Temple was closed. The temple personnel told us that it closes at 1 PM and re-opens at 6.30 PM only. If we were to wait and worship, considering the 2 hour drive to our place of stay in Yala, we would reach only by 9 PM or later. Late dinner apart, the journey through the jungle in the dark was not advisable. So, we just strolled around in the temple courtyard, promising to revisit at a later date. Being 228 kilometers from Colombo, it appeared that, to have darshan here, one has to stay overnight at Katargama or Yala and then come over to the temple, considering the timings.

Rest of the journey to Cinnamon Wild, our place of stay inside the buffer zone of the Yala National Park was without incident, but not entirely smooth. Driving in pitch dark, we could see herds of village cattle and then the final two kilometers or so, to the resort was along a rough , narrow path that cannot be called a road.

Finally ……… after a strenuous day, we were at the open reception of the resort, waiting to get to our cottages, change and come back for dinner. It was 7.30 PM. About the resort itself and the happenings of the next two days………….. another post, it will be.