Mini Ellora

This hidden jewel in Madhya Pradesh is not yet on the major tourist circuit. Had read about Dharmrajeshwar some time back and immediately added it to my bucket list. When we were in Mandsaur to have darshan at the Pashupatinath temple (Pashupatinath temple………….in India ), thought it the right time to extend our stay by a day and visit Dharmrajeshwar, around 70 kilometers away, near the town of Chandwasa. The popularity of Dharmrajeshwar can be gauged from the fact that when we asked our taxi driver if he knew the route to Dharmrajeshwar, his face was blank.  He had never heard of this place. After checking with his office, he understood where it was and had Google Map to guide him.

So, what exactly is Dharmrajeshwar? Monolithic rock-cut temples, both Hindu and Buddhist, on the lines of Ellora (Ajanta Ellora – Day 2). While Ellora is a UNESCO World Heritage site, Dharmrajeshwar is yet to gain popularity. Unlike the Temple of Kailasa, which is a magnificent monument, Dharmrajeshwar is a Living temple, meaning people come here for worship even today, with Maha Shivaratri drawing in massive crowds, we were told.

Set off by 9 AM. Roads were good, though not 4-lane highways, as we could see green fields on either side and after a while some windmills too. Possibly one of the high- potential areas for wind power, I thought. Something long and white, caught our attention. When queried, our driver explained that these were the artificial covering, given for opium(poppy) cultivation. Knowing that Mandsaur is the ‘opium capital’ of India, I queried if this was illegal cultivation. No, was the reply. The cultivation was strictly under government control and farmers have to account for each and every stem.

We had been driving for over an hour and now the landscape was changing. Green fields gave way to rocky terrain, as we wound our way through a small town where a weekly market was put up. Villagers dressed in traditional finery could be seen shopping happily. Moving further, we were off the main road and passing through narrow lanes in a number of villages, having stone-built unpainted houses on both sides. Sharp bends, even narrower lanes and then we were out on reasonably bigger road that was slightly uphill, a gradual incline. A little over 2 hours and we were wondering when we would reach.   The destination springs up suddenly, as we reach the top of the small hillock and the car park could be seen.  Yet, no sign of the cave temples.

Got off to find an excellent toilet block, that pleasantly surprised us. Moving a few steps, we found an old couple sitting near a gate. Learnt they were the caretakers. Pointed to the left for the Dharmrajeshwar temple and said the gate on the right would take us to the Buddhist. caves. A small fee is charged for visiting the Buddhist caves and the only mode of payment is digital. NO CASH. One has to upload his Aadhar details and then make payment online. No charges for the Dharmrajeshwar Hindu temple. our first visit was to the temple, but where was it?  Walked a short distance ahead and we could see steps cut out on the hillside, leading downwards to a narrow winding passage in the hill itself.

As we entered the temple complex, we were welcomed by some people playing some wind instruments and clanging cymbals. Now we had the full view of the temple vihara.

We stood staring in admiration. The temple complex had been carved out from the top of a single hill. The entire complex is at a lower level, with the uncarved portions of the hill standing sentinel, all round, forming the outer compound walls. I recalled that the Kailasa temple in Ellora too had been carved out similarly out of monolithic rock on a hillside. Of course, the enormity and grandeur of the Kailasa temple remain peerless, almost magical. However, the Dharmrajeshwar temple complex cannot be scoffed at, as this too involved engineering skills of the highest degree to carve out the complex from above, from a single rock or part of a hill. Hence, this can be called a mini Ellora, for sure.

The first thing that strikes you when you enter the sanctum of the main temple is, the presence of a huge Shivling and an idol of Lord Vishnu. When quizzed on this, the priest explained that this temple was originally dedicated to Lord Vishnu and the Pratishtha of the Shivling took place later. However, now it is Shivaratri that brings in a large number of pilgrims. We were allowed to touch the Shivling and also perform milk abhisheka. Truly blessed.

Stepped out of the main sanctum on to the courtyard outside, where there are seven more shrines, dedicated to Bhairav, Kali, Parvati & Garuda, among others.in various states of repair and, not all of them open for poojas. More of a tourist attraction.

The carvings/sculptures must have been amazing at one time, but now ravaged by time and weather, they appear truly weatherbeaten. Not as well preserved as in Ellora, but shades of Ellora, all the same. The whole temple complex is 50 meters long, 20 meters wide and 9 meters deep, from the hilltop. The exact period of construction is not clear, but it is said to around 8th and 9th centuries.

Came back to the gate through which one has to go down on the other side to view the Buddhist caves. Payment had to be made and there was an issue with the online payment (which is the only mode here). After multiple trials, we could effect the payment and were allowed to pass through the gate.

Climbing down the rather uneven stone steps , made our way to the Buddhist caves. The feeling I got was, if you have seen one, you have seen them all.  Came up and back to our car and took some swigs of water. It may be noted that there are no stalls or refreshments of any kind in the vicinity. It was a little past 1 PM. Decided to have lunch at Ujjain, as we took a different route, hitting a new expressway and reached Ujjain by around 3 PM.  

When in this part of the world, in Madhya Pradesh, take time off to go off the beaten track to find this hidden gem.