Living Root Bridges

 

The Khasi & Jaintia tribes of Meghalaya live in thickly forested hills. When they have streams or rivers to cross, they do not build bridges but grow them. Yes, they grow bridges.

The Living Root Bridges — Rubber fig trees are planted on either side of the stream or river. As the trees grow, their aerial roots protrude. The Khasis maneuver the roots from both sides, using bamboo scaffolding, in such a way that they veer towards the river or stream. Gradually they get intertwined and with growing strength connect both banks of the stream. More and more of these intertwined aerial roots, some with man-made bamboo platforms for support, and hey presto, you have a bridge spanning the stream, capable of bearing the weight of 50 people at a time. A wonder or should we call it innovative natural engineering of the Khasis? It takes years to grow and to be put to use, but once done, the living roots continue strengthening the bridge, making it usable for very many years, unless rotting of the roots take place. Living root bridges are also seen in some other north-eastern states, as also in Indonesia.

So, when we planned our trip to the north-east, the root bridges of Meghalaya were very much in our radar, especially the ‘Double-decker’ root bridge near Cherrapunji. The tour operator, as well as our local driver tried to dissuade us from visiting the double-decker bridge, saying it would take a whole day and the tough trek will not be suitable for all, especially the children. We were told that the double decker bridge was not for families or senior citizens, as it involves an arduous trek of 3500 steep steps, each way and totalling a distance of over 6 kilometers. Instead, as part of our itinerary, we were to visit the root bridge at Mawlynnong, a trek that was short and doable by everyone. We could get the flavor of a root bridge. Nodding our heads for the time being, we headed for the root bridge at Mawlynnong, some 3 kilometers from the town.

The Mawlynnong root bridge, also called Jingmaham Living Root Bridge in Mohwet village is over 150 years old, yet it was opened for the public as a tourist spot in 2016 by the Princess of Thailand. The bridge is around 30 meters long and the short hike of around 300 meters is easily doable even by small children, though the ground is a bit uneven at some places. Enjoyed the walk on the root bridge, then down to the water below. Excited at our first sight of and walk on a root bridge, we took several pictures and walked back to the car park. Yet, some of our family members felt that this was just a trailer, and the main picture has to be seen …. i.e. the Double decker and long single decker root bridges near Cherapunji.

Had a brief discussion among ourselves. Three of us, my younger daughter and son-in-law plus yours truly decided to undertake the arduous trek the following day. Rest of the family would relax at the hotel. When informed, our driver the following day, too tried to dissuade us, saying ‘ Bahut time lagega, difficult hai, etc’. We insisted, and he drove us to the starting point at Tyrna, a good 3-hour drive from Shillong, where were staying, passing Cherapunji on the way. On hindsight, it would be better to stay in Cherapunji or better still in homestays along the route to the Double decker bridge. It could make the trek easier, perhaps.

Small children could be seen providing walking sticks on hire at the parking lot/trek starting point at Rs.20 each, with the sticks to be returned at the end of the trek. Acquired walking sticks on hire and my daughter, SIL and yours truly started off in an ebullient mood. Initial steep steps gave us the taste of what was in store further. Brief breaks, small swigs of water and, after nearly an hour of downhill climb, reached the single decker root bridge in Nongriat village. This is much longer than the double decker, as we realized later.

A short break for protein bars and Sting… and we were off again, taking the turn at the fork towards the famed double decker.