Quaint, magical Srisailam – Day 1

Had heard and casually read about Srisailam but the place was never really on my ‘bucket list’. As I was spending 10 days at my daughter’s place in Hyderabad, thought why not make a visit to Srisailam — a day-trip or perhaps a leisurely 2 days, 1 night trip. The final vote was for the latter ( of course, the deciding vote by the missus) and we set off on this approximately 230 kilometer drive from Hyderabad on a cloudy morning at 7.30 AM.

Making our way out of the not-so-good, bumpy roads of the city, we soon hit the ORR ( Outer Ring Road), a multi-lane expressway in which the Baleno hummed with pleasure on being able to race along. After a while we exited the ORR but the highway we followed was equally good. ( I would remark at the end of the journey that the roads all through, were superb, except for some very small stretch in Andhra Pradesh.) It was close to 9.30 AM and we could see many food-trucks parked at almost every kilometer providing hot breakfast. We decided to halt at a small restaurant en route and ordered idlis and vada. Well, each plate had 4 idlis and we had trouble polishing them off. Taste was okay but the numbers were high. Breakfast done, we zoomed again and soon the landscape changed with rocky hills all around. We had fun trying to imagine what shapes and figures the rocks/boulders represented — elephant, a bear, two lovers hugging and so on. Crossed many small towns/villages, one of which was strangely named Amangal. Now we were passing the Dindi Reservoir, which had steps from the road for people to have a look at the water inside. Made a mental note to stop over while returning. ( ultimately did not).

11 AM now, and the road was inching upwards and the scenery was changing again. The ghat section had begun, up the Nallamala Hills ( Nallamala meaning ‘Good mountain’ in almost all the south Indian languages). Verdant forests all round. Green was the color of the rainy season, a sight for sore eyes. The only other color visible was the excellent black road seen from our windscreen. Welcome to Amrabad Tiger Reserve, read the board and we had to stop to pay a toll. Signboards showing images of tigers, leopards, deer, porcupines and jackals are seen every few kilometers. Got us all excited , but believe me not a sight of any these animals……. except for troops of monkeys which seem greatly interested in the passing vehicles and not without reasons. Vehicles stopped and the monkeys inside fed the wild monkeys fruits, tit-bits, home-made stuff and packaged stuff as well. Yes, I call these people monkeys because they totally ignore and violate with gay abandon the signboards seen every half-a-kilometer — ‘ FEEDING MONKEYS IS PUNISHABLE WITH A FINE OF RUPEES TEN THOUSAND.’

Now, we were coming down from the thickly forested mountains and could see the majestic River Krishna below. We came closer and closer to the river and now we were were crossing a bridge, where we saw the signboard – ‘Welcome to Andhra Pradesh’……. so Telengana was behind us and were entering another state. Another toll and we were off. The road was slightly bumpy and we missed the smooth roads of Telengana. Not for long, we were climbing again. Better road, the same verdant forests on the other side now. up, up we went as the River Krishna appeared smaller and smaller. Soon we passed the Srisailam Dam & the Hydro-electric project and it was around 12.30 PM when we reached our hotel at a place called Sunnipenta, around 12 kilometers away from the Temple town. A small clearing in the forest and that is where our hotel was.

The small, cosy room

Check-in done, only cash accepted. The receptionist insisted on the full rent in advance plus a refundable deposit of Rs.500, totaling Rs.2500. The order of the local Police station was displayed at the reception that read ” No rooms for single individuals and unmarried couples”. Hungry, we rushed to the in-house restaurant where there were very few patrons and fewer eating options. Ordered phulkas, sabjji, sambhar rice, curd rice and curd. Our verdict — Disappointing. A tad too spicy for our liking. Decided to take a short nap and go to the Temple town of Srisailam by 3 PM.

3 PM– We were advised to visit Hatakeswaram and Sakshi Ganapathi temples en route, around 5 kilometers before Srisailam. It was raining steadily as we reached the small, ancient temple of Sri Hatakeswara Swamy, the name given to Lord Shiva here. The priest was too busy checking his mobile and merely told us that this was an ancient temple dating back to the 11th century where the Shivalinga emerged as a ‘swayambhu’.

Legend has it that there was a pious potter who used to feed devotees trekking through the forests to visit Srisailam. He became very popular and jealous neighbors broke all his mud pots and pans when he was away. On returning, the potter looked at the broken pots and lamented — ‘How will I now feed the devotees?’. Out of the broken pieces of pots emerged the swayambhu Shivalinga and hence the name Atikeswaram ( Atika meaning pot). The potter rushed inside and saw loads of food ready to be served in new pots. The name later due to usage changed to Hatakeswaram. A serene atmosphere prevails here broken only by the pitter-patter of the raindrops and the sounds made by the gamboling monkeys that are in abundance here. The Poornananda swamy Ashram is also situated here. Maybe a figment of my imagination, but I felt that the Nandi inside the temple was looking too far to the right, away from the deity. Do check this out if and when you pay a visit.

Just a kilometer and half away, occupying a part of the road itself is the Sakshi Ganapathi Temple. A must-visit, as per tradition. Why? The Ganapathi here is supposed to keep an account or evidence of all pilgrims visiting Srisailam and hence the name ‘Sakshi'( evidence) Ganapathi. Sure enough, the deity holds a book in His left hand and a quill or writing instrument on His right. Having seen many Ganapathis in the north and in the west where He is worshipped mainly as swayambhu, the idol here is distinct. Sharply chiseled fine features, cast in black, the Ganapathi looks more handsome than ever. Swayambhus usually have naturally formed features and hence the contrast.

A short drive with lush green forests on both sides ( this scenery remains unchanged, all through) and we were at the entry point to the Holy town of Srisailam. An entry fee of Rs.70 per vehicle entitles you to enter and also park the vehicle within the town. Although Srisailam, which is called ” Kailasa on earth” figures in scriptures dating back to the 3rd century C.E. our first view of the town showed broad, clean roads, gardens and sculptures.

We were at the Mallikarjunaswamy Temple. Not too much of a crowd but we were told that the temple would open only at 5.30 PM. Signboards showed where people should queue up for ‘free darshan’, ‘Seegra darshan’ ( Rs.150) & ‘Adi Seegra Darshan’ (Rs.300) plus if one wanted to perform certain sevas or poojas including touching the lingam, that would cost Rs.1116 and for that one had to be dressed in traditional attire. Mobiles and cameras are strictly prohibited inside the temple and we left them in our car along with our footwear. It was only 4 30 PM and so we decided to have a cup of hot filter coffee. We were in for a shock — Restaurant after restaurant said coffee would be ready only after 6 PM as lunch was still continuing. Went round the town noticing the numerous choultries and guesthouses where one could stay. Possibly, they would have basic facilities only is what we thought ( may be wrong) and hence chose our hotel in nearby Sunnipenta. Finally, we reached Ganesh Food Court which had a number of food counters but almost all of them were closed. Luckily, they did serve coffee and we felt energized.

Back to the main temple and we were told that as there was not much rush, we could go for free darshan. The line was moving swiftly and we joined it and soon we were inside the temple. Ha, now there were different waiting rooms resembling cages where we had to wait for around 30 minutes. Noticed a number of devotees from north India of all age-groups and devotees with tonsured heads visiting this temple while returning from Tirupati. During the wait, recalled some of the details about this temple. Mallikarjunaswamy Temple is the second of the 12 sacred jyotirlingas and it is one of the rarities where a jyotirlinga and a Shaktipeeth ( one of the 18 locations where the goddess is worshipped) are situated within the same temple complex, with the goddess Parvati taking the name of Bhramaramba Devi. Various dynasties such as the Rashtrakutas, Kakatiyas, Chalukyas and Hoysalas are said to have contributed towards developing this shrine and building sections of it. However it was during the Vijayanagar dynasty rule that the main temple is said to have been built in the 14th century C.E. Chhatrapati Shivaji who was a devotee of Mallikarjunaswamy ( there is a museum in Srisailam in honour of Chhatrapati Shivaji) is said to have ordered the construction of the northern tower or gopuram.

Legend has it that two brothers, Nandi and Parvat, sons of Siladha Maharishi were staunch Shiva devotees. Pleased by their devotion, Shiva agreed to grant them their wishes — Nandi chose to be the vehicle of Shiva and a huge Nandi statue by name Sanagala Basavanna, we would shortly see. The other brother Parvat requested Shiva to create another Kailasa on earth and reside there. Shiva agreed and said Parvat would be the mountain on which devotees would come to worship Him. So, we were standing on Parvat or the soil of Srisailam. Shiva is called Mallikarjunaswamy as ‘mallika’ or jasmine flowers are provided as offerings to Him here.

The gate had opened and there was a mad rush for a few moments as there was no one to monitor the crowd. Only for a while, soon we were trooping into the main hall where the ‘paid darshan’ queue had also merged. The clanging of cymbals, blowing of conches and the beat of drums along with a group of volunteers singing ‘ Om Nama Shivaya’ as if in a trance certainly set forth a lot of positive energy. In front of the deity, there was a feeling of a magical connect, something which one has to experience. We were out in about 15 minutes and saw the 5 lingams in the courtyard which were consecrated supposedly by the five Pandavas. The names of each of the lingams as also the Pandava is mentioned therein. Incidentally, Lord Rama is also said to have worshipped here.

Now we were inside the shrine (within the same complex) of Bhramaramba Devi, the form in which Parvati is worshipped here. The deity is an epitome of beauty and grace. Legend has it that there was a demon named Arunasura who had obtained a boon from Brahma that he could never be killed by any two-legged or four-legged living creature. Thinking he was immortal, Arunasura went about harassing human beings as also Gods. Parvati is said to have taken the form of a thousand bees ( Bhramara) and vanquished him, hence the Bhramara Amba Devi. Darshan over, we came out to the Laddoo counters and purchased some. As we walked back to our car, watching the temple towers and outer walls resembling a fort, a strange sense of bliss pervaded over us.

Back in our car, quickly put on our shoes and as is the wont, powered on our mobiles. It was around 6.30 PM and we were hungry. Reached the much acclaimed Hotel Trishul and were disappointed that no dosas or idlis were available. Only after 7.30 PM we were told. Only option was fried rice. No, we said and drove back to Ganesh Food Court, where Guntur idlis, masala dosa and sada dosa tasted great as we were hungry. A note of caution– Food is a problem in Srisailam, both the variety as well as timing. Started back to our hotel, around 20 minutes away, tired and looking forward to a good night’s sleep ………. and then an exciting Day 2.