Quaint, magical Srisailam – Day 2

Day 2 was cloudy but no rains. We had planned to finish our sight-seeing by around 1 PM and drive back to Hyderabad. Set off from our hotel by 7.30 PM with the first port-of-call being Hotel Trishul for breakfast. Entering Srisailam town again, we did not have to pay the entry fees as it was valid for 24 hours. Piping hot upma, medu vada and strong filter coffee ( with jaggery and not sugar, I thought) bolstered our spirits and we decided to have a morning darshan of Mallikarjunaswamy & Bhramaramba Devi. We were back at the main temple and this time we decided to opt for the ‘seegra darshan’ paying Rs.150 per head, in the hope of avoiding the halt in the caged hold-up areas within. Sure enough, we made swift progress and we were inside the temple at the sannadhi entrance, where the free darshan line also merges. Believe it or not, it took us longer to complete the darshan and come out. The darshan was truly amazing, yet again, with the small lingam clearly visible, without the ornaments and finery of the previous evening. Next was the Bhramaramba Devi sannadhi, where there was lesser crowd and we could stand and admire the divine beauty of the goddess.

We were now off to PathalaGanga, which is the name given to the river Krishna here. A kilometer and half away from the main temple, we were now at the parking lot of the APSTDC. Walked towards the ticket counters……. yes, ticket counters for boating ( which was closed) and for the ropeway or cable cars which would take us down from the hilltop where we were to the river down below. Rs.65 per head for to and fro were the charges and armed with our tickets we stepped into the boarding area. Not much crowd at this time.

One look at the rusty, rickety cable-cars and my heart skipped a bit. With a prayer to Mallikarjuna, got into the car. Thankfully, it is a very short ride, downhill, say 5 minutes……… but the view of the mountains covered in green and the river Krishna snaking between the mountains was truly mesmerizing.

Got off the cable car and walked down a flight of about 60-70 steps down to the river. Small shops selling food items and flowers abound. Nearby, saw another flight of steps, which we were told number more than 500 and used by people who do not take the cable car.

Taking a dip in the holy Pathala Ganga is supposed to cleanse one of all sins. Rope hand-rails have been provided for the safety of devotees. Flower sellers abound and we saw devotees offering the flowers to the river. As the area did not appear too hygienic, we chose not to take a dip and remain sinners.

Back up the steps to the cable car station and the return journey to the top and soon we were in our car. Next place of visit after a couple of photographs at the entry point to Srisailam town and we were off to Paladhara Panchadhara. On reaching the spot, we figured out that it was just across the road from Hatakeswaram which we had visited a day earlier. A few small shops and then a flight of about 160 steps leading us down into a narrow valley. What do we find below? Lush green forests all round with the only sound being the gurgling streams flowing down the mountain in the form of mini-waterfalls. Putting ones feet in the cold water was bliss. The taste, well nothing great but good.

The streams ( Dhara) are said to originate from the forehead ( Phala) of Lord Shiva and represent HIs five ( Pancha) aspects. The streams are believed to flow into the river Krishna. Paladhara Pachadhara finds mention in the Puranas too ( it is that ancient) and Adi Shankaracharya is said to have meditated in this peaceful place in the 8th century C.E. and also written Sivanandalahari extolling the virtues of Mallikarjunaswamy. A small temple dedicated to Adi Shankaracharya stands here.

We had made good time and now to reach the highest point or ‘shikaram’ in Srisailam area, we took a slight deviation from the road which would take us to our hotel and further down the Nallamala mountains. After driving around 8 kilometers, we were there at the shikaram…….. well, not quite, one has to climb up about 100 steps to reach Shikarewara swamy, the name which Shiva takes here. Talking to the priest revealed that the lingam here was very ancient ( he did not know the era) but it was a not a swayambhu but was installed ( pratishta done). The priest added that, a few more steps above the temple and from where if we are able to see all the gopurams or towers of the Mallikarjunaswmay Temple, we will escape the cycle of rebirth. Ha, we climbed further up and wow, what a sight it was. a 360 degree view of greenery all round, the dense forests and Srisailam town far away. There is a telescope facility too to catch a closer view by paying a few rupees.

The exact point from where if you see all the temple towers and avoid rebirth is the movable Nandi. One gets closer, moves the Nandi a few degrees, keeping close to it and closing one eye…… lo and behold, all the towers of the Mallikarjunaswamy temple are seen and no rebirth.

It was close to 12.45 PM now. Drove back and checked out of our hotel by 1.15 PM and started our return journey. Stopped en route to catch some great views of the Srisailam Dam, a few kilometers downhill. Entry inside the dam is prohibited and we had to make do with the viewing points on the road.

Stopped for a leisurely lunch at Mrugavani Resort which is almost at the foot of the Nallamala mountains. Save for a few showers here and there, our return journey to Hyderabad was uneventful. 5 PM was the target return we had set ourselves in the beginning but thanks to the city traffic, rains and uneven roads in the last stretch of two kilometers, we reached home by 5.20 PM. Had this been a car rally, maybe we would have docked a few penalty points.

A lovely trip to a magical place!