Z for Zanzibar

After the high-octane safaris, Godson picked me up from my hotel in Arusha in the early morning after an hour’s drive, we were at Kilimanjaro International Airport. After profusely thanking Godson for the excellent arrangements, boarded the flight to Dar,. Highlight was that soon after take-off, the Captain announced that Mount Kilimanjaro could be seen to our left. Sure enough, even on this cloudy morning, I could make out Mount Kilimanjaro rising majestically above the clouds.

Back in Dar. My friend Shan’s place again, same delicious South Indian breakfast and then accompanied my friend to his seat of power, his office. Spent some time there, got acquainted with the senior team, then off with Steve to buy some souvenirs— what else? Wild animals beautifully carved out of wood and nicely polished. The safari animals were now in my bag, so to say. Also booked the to-and-fro ferry tickets to Zanzibar. There are many ferries plying but the best-in-class is the Kilimanjaro group ferries. Tickets for a foreigner costs three times that for a local. Hmmm!

Evening was at the Coco Beach which had numerous small taverns and fabulous views of the Indian Ocean. Understand that as the sun goes down, the entire beach becomes a happening party-place. As Zanzibar awaited the next morning, did not party but had a quick dinner prepared by Emmy and it was time to crash.

Early next morning found me at the ferry terminal– extremely crowded with people of all races congregating here, multiple languages heard, strange foodstuff being sold and a hot and sweaty atmosphere. Soon it was time to board Kilimanjaro-5 a large boat with different classes of seats. I had chosen Executive class but found my neighboring seats packed with school children who were crowding around the seat immediately next to mine , playing some game on the only mobile available. The journey across the clear blue Indian Ocean lasted around two hours and was anything but pleasant, thanks to my young friends. ‘Karibu Zanzibar’ or Welcome to Zanzibar read the signboard as we disembarked, had our baggage screened and soon I was out in the crowded street. The sun was beating down in all his glory.

My Zanzibar adventure began the moment I stepped out of the ferry terminal. I had the address of my hotel but thought it prudent not to walk in the first instance ( it was stated to be at a walkable distance and indeed it was). I was looking around the crowded street for  a taxi or a Bajaji ( as they call the three-wheeled motorised rickshaws after their Indian manufacturer). None was in sight. There were two-wheeler motorcycle taxis and one of the guys accosted me. He did not speak English and I never spoke any of the local lingos. I slowly repeated the hotel name and address. He nodded as if he understood and said 5000 shillings. Negotiated to 3000 shillings and we were off. Soon realised that the guy did not know the way. We were going all over the place and he stopped to ask a couple of people who too appeared ignorant. I shouted at him in English, which of course he did not understand. Finally I called up the hotel and made him talk. Finally we reached the Dhow Palace Hotel, which in itself was a piece of history and worth seeing.

Situated in the narrow Baghani Street in the heart of Stone Town, Dhow Place Hotel dates back to 1559 when it was a residential mansion of a rich merchant. It had changed many hands, been let out as residential accommodation, office space,etc. This lasted till the 1964 revolution when the Government nationalised this prime property and let it go to seed. It was in the late eighties that the Muzammil family acquired it from the Government and refurbished it using the same materials used initially and as close as possible to the plan of the original building. The hotel opened in 1993.

I was in Suite 300 which had an intricately carved door opening into a long passage having the living room first. All the furniture here are of wood with carvings in ancient Islamic style. In fact, the architecture of the building itself is Oriental in nature. The Living room has a big divan, chair, table and a modern amenity– refrigerator. Well-carpeted , the bedroom has a large wooden dressing table, chest-of-drawers and a massive four-poster bed with mosquito net made of lace. The bathrooom has a cute little tub in Turkish style. All the rooms have wooden rafters, ancient fans,windows of stained glass. To add to the grandeur was a small sit-out with two chairs and a table for having tea while looking at the courtyard below. There is a small spiral staircase outside which leads to a viewing gallery from where I could get a 360 degree view of Stone Town. A restaurant and swimming pool is available inside but no bar. It had started raining now as I walked down the winding corridors to the reception. The counter manager gave me directions to an Indian restaurant nearby and also organised a guide for a walking tour of Stone Town later in the afternoon.

I just sank into the luxurious bed in my room and imagined myself to be one of the sultans of old, as I waited for the rain to stop and move out for lunch. Was looking forward to the Stone Town walking tour later in the day.